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After 20 years in the restaurant business, chef J.C. Poirier credits being true to himself and his 蚕耻别虂产别虂肠辞颈蝉 roots as the keys to his outsized success.

For Jean-Christophe ( J.C.) Poirier, chef and owner of Vancouver鈥檚 St. Lawrence restaurant, food is defined by its ability and power to bring diverse segments of people together 鈥� a connection that is celebrated the world over. 鈥淔ood culture is the No. 1 conversation in people鈥檚 lives,鈥� says Poirier. 鈥淚 cook to give pleasure, to initiate a closeness with people. It is only with true love that I can create a masterpiece.鈥�

Poirier, who spent his childhood in 厂补颈苍迟-闯茅谤么尘别, Que., began cooking at 11 years old, first for himself as an after-school snack, then for his family and friends. In fact, it was Poirier鈥檚 friends who encouraged him to make cooking his career. After attending Montreal鈥檚 Riverside Park Cooking School, at the age of 19, Poirier began his first professional cooking job at Les Remparts in Old Montreal. 鈥淚 chose to make it a classic French restaurant because I knew I needed to control the basis of cooking before I created or broke the rules,鈥� Poirier says.

After two years, Poirier, under the mentorship of Normand Laprise, worked at Toqu茅! restaurant in Montreal, which he says is one of the best restaurants in Canada. Following a two-year stint learning about discipline and what it took to cook at an elite level, Poirier, then 25, decided to go to Vancouver, a feat in itself, as he didn鈥檛 speak a word of English. 鈥淚 needed to get out of Montreal and try something new. I think travelling is an important part of a cook鈥檚 apprenticeship. It is important to experience different ingredients and philosophies 鈥� an opportunity to think out of the box. I planned to stay for a year, but 15 years later, I鈥檓 still here,鈥� Poirier says with a laugh. 鈥淚 also believe that it is important to go back home, bringing back with you the things that you have learned along the way. My way of going back home was to open the St. Lawrence.鈥�

After further travels through South America and Europe, Poirier and his partner opened three restaurants: Ask for Luigi, Pizzeria Farina and St. Lawrence. And while there is always some rich discussion around the difference between a chef and a cook, there is no doubt in Poirier鈥檚 mind which one he is. 鈥淚 consider myself a cook first,鈥� he says. 鈥淎 chef, to me, is more of a position. My opinion is rooted in tradition and history, and that is why I choose classical cooking.鈥�

St. Lawrence, located in Vancouver鈥檚 Railtown (just east of the renowned Gastown neighbourhood), is a 42-seat establishment, with an ambiance that is completely immersed in the French experience. The menus and a complete French offerings wine list are all in French, with French music in the background heightening the mood. 鈥淚t is like a French country home, very cozy,鈥� Poirier says. 鈥淐lients feel like they have travelled somewhere else, that they are not in Vancouver. I think that is why people love it here so much.鈥�

“To be successful, you need a real hunger for excellence; it is something that you put your heart into every day”

Vancouver, known for its laidback lifestyle, is also known for its healthy grassroots fare, including sushi and an abundance of vegetables and juice cleansings. Poirier identified a niche within this market to promote Qu茅b茅cois cuisine to Vancouverites, a cuisine not readily available in this newage city. 鈥淚t feels like a full circle; classic French food had become old, and people forgot about it, but it is coming back now. It is like the fashion industry 鈥� everything old is new again. French cuisine is new again,鈥� Poirier says. 鈥�The St. Lawrence experience is festive. You come here to celebrate 鈥� it is like a party. It is not the kind of food you are going to eat every day.鈥�

What makes Poirier鈥檚 creativity in the kitchen singular among cooks is his approach, both his authenticity and his lack of needing to impress. 鈥淚 go in different directions than other cooks. I study the work of great chefs with respect; I revisit history and then I bring back those great dishes that have a history to them, and I make them my own,鈥� he says.

Pragmatic in his creativity, Poirier鈥檚 strategy is paying off handsomely. Named Restaurant of the Year for the second year running at Vancouver Magazine鈥檚 30th Annual Restaurant Awards, St. Lawrence also won gold for Best Gastown restaurant and Best French restaurant. Poirier was also awarded Chef of the Year. The restaurant is listed as No. 5 on the 2019 ranking of Canada鈥檚 100 Best Restaurants and No. 4 on enRoute magazine鈥檚 2018 list of the nation鈥檚 Best New Restaurants.

There are, of course, challenges for Poirier, for being a hugely popular No. 1 restaurant, including time away from his family: wife, Dara, and his two daughters, Aila, 6, and Florence, 2.

The St. Lawrence menu, which changes biannually, is definitive of the Qu茅b茅cois cuisine: vol-auvent aux champignons, venison pie (the most Qu茅b茅cois item on the menu), choux pastry for Paris-Brest, foie gras mousse with a red wine sauce, rabbit in mustard sauce, tarte au sucre (sugar pie), lemon tart flamb茅 with Ricard Pastis and Poirier鈥檚 original rice pudding, which he describes as light and fluffy. 鈥淚t is very popular 鈥� something very different that you can鈥檛 find anywhere [else] in the city,鈥� he says.

While Poirier considers success a collection of small things done very well, it is his commitment to excellence and perseverance that positions the restaurant at the top of Vancouverites鈥� list. 鈥淏ut mostly, it is loving what I do,鈥� Poirier says. 鈥淚 don鈥檛 treat cooking like it is work. To me, it is a hobby. My spine and my soul are enveloped in being a cook.

You can learn the art of cooking by attending one of Poirier鈥檚 cooking sessions in Italy. Visit www.renshawtravel.com/retreat-to-italy-with-vancouver-chef-jc-poirier for upcoming information.